Drop spindling (is that how its spelled?)

This is my new painting from the weekend created off of a stained glass work I saw recently. I'm sure that some of you can figure out what she is doing. And guess what??!!! I learned to do it! I learned to ply on a drop spindle. Its very slow work but it feels so personally satisfying. When I finally finish plying, even though I didn't spin the yarn, the work is going to feel so much more special. I'm not sure that I would ever want to learn to spin like on a spinning wheel, but this was a big start for me. I'm plying together some laceweight singles of silk and cashmere in a buff and shell pink color.


Classes with the children are going exceptionally. This week I'm having them do study's on wildflower fields following Monet's examples. They have struggled hard with the technique yet have produced some beautiful work.

Amazing Lace Challenge No. 4

Herborgar Sushi
Amazing Lace Challenge #4

IF I were to de-needle my lace project (Hyrna Herborgar) NOW, what would I relegate her to instead?

SUSHI.

I'm still tinking back trying to find my stitch count error. please be somewhere near. I'm now back to row 64 and its not appearing. I'm frustrated beyond belief and the sushi idea is looking more and more palatable.

Grecian Tank

Grecian Tank

Supplies
1 hank Fleece Artist Kasula (100% kid mohair, dk weight) or dk weight hand painted wool yarn (something with plenty of natural elasticity) (I used about half of my hank of Kasula)
Alternative yarn: 3 skeins dk weight yarn such as Dream Baby or approximately 600-700 yards.
Overlay: 1 hank angel curls or complimentary kid mohair or other laceweight yarn(laceweight type) (you don’t need very much)

Needles: size 4.5 mm, size 5.0 mm, 6.0mm. and size 7.0mm (all European sizes/use American equivalents) Circulars 24” (or something about that….you will be using the circular sizes for the overlay, and if you prefer to just add stitches every 3 inches to allow for fit, then you don’t have to keep graduating up in size until midway when you need to switch to a larger needle for airiness in the fabric).

you will also need a separate needle to hold back stitches on.

Guage: on 2x2 rib, 3 inch square =12 stitches on 19 rows.
Sizes are for small/medium(34-35”); and medium/large (38-40”).


Special Stitch Patterns:

Half of a Porcupine Stitch: (12x +4)
Row 1: k2, (yo, k2tog) rep across row; end k2.
Row 2: K2, purl across row; end k2
Row 3: Knit
Row 4: K2, purl across row; end K2
Row 5: K2, (sl1/k2tog/psso, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4) repeat across row; end k2
Row 6: K2 (p3tog, p4, yo, p1, yo, p4) repeat across row; end k2.
Row 7: K2, (p3tog, p4, yo, p1, yo, p4) repeat across row; end K2
Row 8: K2 (sl1/k2tog/psso, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4) repeat across row; end k2

Rib pattern: (every row begins with 1 slipped stitch, purlwise with yarn in back)
Row 1, 3: k2, p2
Row 2, 4, 6: knit the knit stitches; purl the purl stitches
Row 5: following rib pattern, except for knit stitches, Knit through the back loop of 2nd knit stitch (do not slide off needle), then knit first knit stitch; slide both stitches off needle; purl the purl stitches

Back: Cast on 76 (88) Follow stitch pattern for 8 repeats. Switch to Rib pattern. Do one full repeat.

On next 2 rows, beginning on a Row 2, bind off 5 (6) keep to rib pattern for duration of rows.
On next 2 rows, (Row 4 and 5), bind off 3 (4) by slipping first stitch knitwise (rather than knitting it) and proceed with bo passing first slipped stitch over next stitch and continuing then for regular bo stitches. 60 (68) stitches.

Decrease one stitch each side on every right side row by slip1, k2tog on left side, end ssk. K1. until 50 (60) stitches remain on needle
Continue in Rib pattern until arm shaping is 4 inches (4 ½ inches). place all stitches on a separate needle; make front following same instructions as for back.

When both sides are knit to this point, you are ready to knit them together as follows:
First lightly steam the lace portion – NOT THE RIBBING – stretching lengthwise.

Beginning on Left Front edge, place marker; follow pattern across to Right Front edge, turn; cast on provisionally 27 (29), turn; attach back as follows: slip 27th (29th) stitch to left needle and knit together with first stitch of Right Back edge; follow rib pattern as established across to Left Back edge. Turn, provisionally cast on 27 (29), turn. Attach to front by slipping first stitch of right front onto left hand needle and knitting it together with the 27th (29th) cast on stitch to join round. Working now in the round, continue twisted rib pattern around entire sweater for 1 more complete row.

Row 3: Work to 4 (6) stitches past Right Back Shoulder (RBS). Turn, twisting yarn between two stitches (to twist yarn in: slip stitch from rt needle to left, bring yarn to front; slip stitch back to rt needle without knitting, catching yarn between stitches). Work 4 (6) + 26 (28) + 4 (6) stitches in rib pattern towards Right Front Shoulder (RFS). Turn; twist yarn in. Place marker. **Work back across to RBS marker, remove marker, work 2 more stitches, turn/twist yarn in. pm. Work back to RFS marker, remove marker, work 2 additional stitches, turn/twist yarn in, pm, ** 2x, removing markers on 2nd time. Work across right shoulder to Left Front Shoulder (LFS) marker, remove marker, work 4 (6) additional stitches; turn/twist yarn in, place marker. Work to Left Back Shoulder (LBS) + 4 (6) stitches; turn/twist yarn in, place marker. ** Work back to LFS marker, remove marker, work 2 additional stitches, turn/twist yarn in, pm; Work back to LBS to marker, remove marker, work 2 additional stitches; turn/twist yarn in, pm ** 2x. Work around to LFS, then work one complete row across all stitches following rib pattern.
(If not doing the overlay, then bo all stitches following in rib).
break yarn (leaving tail in for weaving in later).

Seam front and back at sides, INCLUDING seaming the first 5 bind off stitches of arm shaping (this creates a mock ease type element).



Overlay (optional):
Attach angel curls (or other laceweight type yarn) to last stitch and proceed with knit stitch only. Work so the knit side will face the WS of the body. Knit in the round for 1 inch; switch to 5.0 needles and continue for 3 inches. Switch to size 6.0 for 3 inches. Switch to size 7.0 for 3 more inches. (the knit side will be facing the inside of the sweater so that when you are done, the knit side will fold over and be seen on the outside).
Attach Kasula yarn and knit with the 7.0 for 1 row in a k2, p2 rib. Switch to size 5.0 needles and knit for 1 row following established rib. On third round, BO in rib.
Weave in all ends.
Tack overlay with hidden stitches onto shoulder shaping on both sides.

Straps: (optional)
With crochet hook and kasula doubled, attach yarn to just under top edge, 8 stitches in from armhole under the overlay. Chain 28 stitches. Attach to back 1 row under top edge on the body side, 6 stitches in from arm hole, with a slip stitch. Firmly weave yarns in catching the overlay so that it will not fall to reveal the chain connection. Do this on both sides.
If you cannot crochet, then do a 3 stitch I cord using only 1 strand of kasula and attach in the same places.



If you love my free patterns, you can encourage me to write more by leaving a note of thanks in the comments. I see them and it helps me to know that there is interest.

Email me if you have questions or have photos of your finished sweater.

Copyright. Please Do NOT duplicate without permission from the writer.
Jeanette Sherritze May 1, 2006
sherritzej@cox.net
http://knittinginsteadofhousework.blogspot.com/

The Lazy River of Life

I went to a water park with my daughter and granddaughter. I'm not a big "don the swimsuit and jump down the massive slide" person. I prefer those intertubes on the lazy river. Here I am living it up.....I'm crocheting! This is the life!
And what am I crocheting????
Why a bathing suit of course!





And then there was art class. I'm teaching a new student. This young lady has a learning disability of some sort, but WOW! Look at this work she did today....you need to click on her photo to see her sketch better. She drew from a Henri Matisse work.
student art work


I taught two classes today, leaving the house about 8:15 this morning and not finishing up until 3:00 this afternoon. Teaching as I do drains me, but I love it so much. I came home and napped for a bit and then worked somemore on my new painting.

Happy Bastille Day!

Bastille
Tomorrow, July 14, is a significant day in French history. The storming of the Bastille. I don't know the entire history as a French person would, but I believe that it was when a prison run by the state was overrun by the French peasantry who had couragously challenged a dictorship style government. This painting represents that courage and will to fight for change and human rights. The butterfly wing represent s freedom; the lionness (in outline form all in the bottom 1/2 of the painting) represents courage, which we need to challenge any of our own old regimes, and Lady Victory heralds the way to remind me/them/us that it can be done with perseverence.


10 days since my last blog update. what's up?
-Hyrna is being tinked back to row 64. I have an error and can't find it. My stitch counts are different on each side of center, so all I know to do is to go back to where I know it was right before (here, we can ask why I don't have lifelines.).

-The sweater design for Vickie Howell is MOMENTS from being done. An edge stitch down the front and weave in some ends. Then I just need to do some multiple sizing calculations, and she's off in the mail! YAY ME!

-My son's karate teacher has been begging me to design a dog sweater for his Golden Retriever. BEGGING. PESTERING. (he's sweet, and gives my son a lot of extra attention.....like tonight when he punched him in the face!). So, not that I don't have anything else on the needles, I cast on 142 stitches. I'm not sure exactly what I'm doing except a creamy off white color and a big cable. Nothing petite for this size dog.



My oldest daughter and granddaughter
are here visiting for the week. Isn't she beautiful! I've already started a painting of her (playing on the beach).

Crocheted Soap Sack

(The pattern for the dishclothe can be found at this site. Its called Snowdrop lace 2. )

Cute little soap sack serves as a perfect accompaniment with dishclothes to make a snazzy gift.

















Soap Sack

Materials
Euroflax linen or appropriate sportweight strong yarn like Elann's Canapone (double stranded), about .20 grams
Size B steel crochet hook

Row 1 and Round 2: Ch 54. Tdc in ch 49, ch 2, (Sk 2, in next ch, tdc; ch 2)18 times to last ch, ending after the tdc; join to ch 51 of first round being careful not to twist circle.

Round 3: ch 1, sc in each stitch to last ch. Sl st to first sc to join round.

Round 4: ch 2, dc in first sc; ch 4, *sk 4 sc, in next sc: (sc, ch 7)3x, sc; ch 4, sk 4 sc, in next sc, dc * (repeat between *s); to end, replace dc with sl st in top of first dc of this round to join.

Round 5: ch 1, * sc in top of dc, ch 1; (sc in ch 7 sp, ch 3) 2x, sc in ch 7 sp, ch 1 * (repeat between *s); to end round, sl st in top of dc.

Round 6: ch 1, sc in sl st; ch 7, sc in sc; *ch 4, dc in sc at top of 2nd ch 7 sp, ch 4, sk ch 3 sp, sc, ch 1; in next sc (top of dc): (sc, ch 7)3x, sc; * (repeat between *s); to end round, after dc: ch 4, in sc at start of round: sc, ch 7, sc, ch 4, tdc. SEE ALTERNATIVE DIRECTIONS FOR LAST REPEAT OF ROUND 6.

Round 7: ch 1, sc in top of tdc, ch 3, sc in next ch 7 sp, *ch 1, sc in top of sc over dc, ch 1, (sc in ch 7 sp, ch 3)2x, sc in ch 7 sp* (repeat between *s); to end round, after sc, in sc (at top of dc), ch 1, sc in ch 7 sp, ch 3, sl st in first sc of this round. SEE ALTERNATE DIRECTIONS FOR LAST REPEAT OF ROUND 7.

Repeat rounds 4-7 for a total of 8 rows.

ALTERNATE DIRECTIONS FOR LAST REPEAT OF ROW 6 & 7:
Last Repeat of Round 6: to end round, after dc, ch 3, in sc at start of round, sc, ch 4, tdc.
Last Repeat of Round 7: Position sack so that it lays flat and ch 7 loops lay over each other and dc's lay over each other forming a front and back of soap sack. Seam bottom by: ch 1, join ch 7 loop and tdc loop with one sc, ch 1, *join next front and back sack side dc's with a sc at top of dc, ch 1, (join next front side ch 7 loop with corresponding back side ch 7 loop with sc in ch 7 sps, ch 3,)2x, join next front side ch 7 loop with corresponding back side ch 7 loop with sc in ch 7 sps, ch 1,* finish row in this manner, ending with sc in last dc.

Make cord: ch 90. sc in each stitch. Put soap inside bag. thread cord through top of sack like lacing a corset.

What am I doing?

You must look at this absolutely mind boggling correction on the Hyrna Herborgar that Yarn Harlot recently reported on! Yarn Harlot Where have I been??? I didn't know you could do that. Next mistate, I'm not frogging (yeah, right, never in a million years would I try that lace correction....I'll start over again with 8006.)


I NEED to be working on my sweater for Vickie Howell. I did about an hour and a half this morning, but I'm way behind schedule and I promised it for June. I'm guessing I have about 6-8 more crocheting hours on this project. Then I need to finalize the pattern and make size adjustments (that process takes me a few days).

I also need to finish up a beautiful linen washclothe for the knit dischclothe exchange group. (worked diligently on that for a few hours last night.
Snowdrop Faceclothe and Gems Merino Opal Yarn

Despite linen being harder on the hands that cashmere, it is still my favorite yarn....yet, my linen love will be challenged soon by hemp. I have less than 24 hours to decide what color I want from Elann's new hemp collection. Tomorrow, July 4th, at EXACTLY 9:00Pacific Standard Time, it will be released. (that link will only work today, cuz the link is for the sneak preview page). I can't decide between the colors: warm sand, scallop shell, bittersweet, and/or green tea. The problem is that I don't need more yarn. Why? Because I participated in a coop order of hemp/wool blend that I should be getting the shipping quote on anyday now; I also recently (like Wednesday last week) ordered linen from Wildstring.com's sale. The linen's are Oriental Grass (the salmon & cream) and cedarwood.(I know, shameless yarn porn!)(btw: this came in today's mail....that's some fast shipping she does! She's definitely getting repeat business from me.) Plus, I already have two other colors of Euroflax linen in my stash (the stash that I have acquired 2006, not 2005 - I forget what's in that one.). Regardless, like an addict who needs a major fix, I'm ordering the hemp from Elann tomorrow. don't tell my husband.

And Hyrna. Poor neglected thing. The project which I most want to be doing, but has the least ranking in the current projects. Well, that's not entirely truthful: I did buy some Euroflax Gems Opal in an incredible aqua color on Saturday from my local LYS (we gotta support them if we want to prevent knitting from going down a path to obscurity....its for the preservation of our very society that I bought it!). So since the Gems Opal hasn't been started, it technically has a much lower ranking than Hyrna (although there is nothing sweeter than new yarn!)(....okay, except chocolate.).(let me clarify the chocolate: DARK chocalte. really dark. like Godiva chocolates. mmmmm! I think I need some of those, too!).